Lipe

I have only a modest knowledge of geography.

When I imagine traveling to a country I have never visited, I tend to envision one particular city I know of, or some scene from a movie. I think that's pretty common.

Then I might pick up a guide book, or surf the web looking for more stories, descriptions, or pictures.

But then when I actually arrive, it hits me - how much more to this place there is that I will never see or never even hear about. All I can do is keep my eyes and ears open for new places to check out.

One day I was sitting at a hot springs back home, and I was chatting about Thailand with a guy I met. He was raving about this island Ko Lipe on the west coast near the Malaysian border. He said it was a beautiful, quiet place, and a great escape from the more crowded tourist beaches.

He seemed like the sort of fellow I'd like to meet out on a beach somewhere. We probably have similar sensibilities in such places. So I made a mental note to check it out if I was in the area.

That's really all it takes for me to choose a destination sometimes. A good tip.

So sitting in Railay, plotting my next move, I figured I wasn't likely to be any closer to Lipe any time soon, so now is the time.

I took a bus to Pak Bara, the nearest pier town, and headed over.

Ko Lipe is a small island in the midst of the Tarutao National Park. The only reason that construction is permitted on this island is that it has been the home of some sea gypsies since before it was even part of Thailand. Those gypsies retained their rights to build here, and in the grand tradition of other indigenous people exploiting their land rights (e.g. Native American casinos), Ko Lipe tourism was born.

As the ferry pulled in toward the island, it hit me that this place is just slightly bigger than I expected. I'll need to make a decision about which beach to stay at while I'm here. So I took a quick poll around the boat to see what people knew about the different spots.

I learned that the sunrise side of the island has cheaper bungalows and is quieter than the Pattaya Beach side where we landed. That sounded good to me, but required a sweaty 300 meter walk to the other side, where I promptly dropped my pack next to a very relaxed looking woman in a hammock and walked the long pretty beach to find my next home.

I found a place with some nice bamboo bungalows and asked for one right on the beach facing the water. It had a little bed out front with some pillows for enjoying the spectacular view of the white sand and turquoise water decorated with a few colorful long tail boats waiting for maintenance by the sea gypsies next door.

When I first heard of these gypsies, I imagined slim folks with long scraggly black hair and bandanas and jingly clothes that made them sound like Santa's sleigh while they danced around their camp fires at night singing pirate songs.

But actually, they pretty much just look and act like other Thais. Oh well.

At 900 baht, the bungalow was pricey for bamboo, but I decided to splurge since the spot was so beautiful. There were other cheaper huts around if I decided to stay longer.

I threw on my swim suit and jumped in the warm blue water for a much needed swim after the long journey.

I looked forward to laying on my little veranda afterward, but just as I got out, some clouds moved overhead and the wind started to blow.

For the next two days the wind kept blowing against my little hut, and woke me up early each day from the noise.

Suddenly, this expensive little hut didn't seem so awesome anymore. Especially when I noticed that if I walked inland just 50 meters or so, the wind completely stopped. It's only the sunrise beach that's windy.

Hmph.

So I looked around the island for a new home and found Sunset beach. It required a bit of a hike down a jungle road, but there was no wind, and the beach, although smaller, was very pretty as well.

The bungalows there aren't anything to write home about with their pink linoleum floors, and dingy easter egg interior, but it was quite functional and much cheaper at 500 baht to have my hammock hang just over the shore.

There were only a couple of places to eat here and one bar, so anyone with an interest in socializing would likely want to walk the twenty minutes into the village to do so. Just remember your flashlight.

I established myself as a regular at Mom's Tattoo Bar on the main walking street. I noticed it as soon as I arrived to the island because it plays a revolving list of easy listening covers to popular songs. Mom, who's actually a man, is a well known tattoo artist who also runs the bar and keeps the atmosphere lively.

I enjoyed my time on Lipe. It's a good atmosphere with some very pretty beaches. I also hear the diving is amazing around here.

But I knew this wouldn't be my new island paradise. My mind was on one place. One beach I always return to when I'm here. I figured I'd spend a couple of weeks there at least. So I had better head over if for no other reason than I could stop daydreaming about it.

I say my goodbyes to the Tattoo Bar staff and regulars.

Tomorrow, Phangan.